Discovering the hidden Tuscany: Lower Maremma and the City of Tufa

Discovering the hidden Tuscany: Lower Maremma and the City of Tufa

The Maremma is a vast area covering part of southern Tuscany, notably the province of Grosseto, and a small part of northern Latium (Lazio). This was once the homeland of the Etruscans, the mysterious civilization which dominated central Italy before the emergence of the Roman Empire and whose legacy can be explored throughout the area.

The Maremma can be divided into the Alta Maremma (upper or northern Maremma), and Bassa Maremma (lower or southern Maremma).The Alta Maremma exteds from Grosseto northwards to Cecina River just south of Livorno while the lower Maremma extends along the Albegna and Ombrone rivers down the coast to the Argentario and beyond, The latter is the least populated area of mainland Italy and, despite being a great destination for the historian, nature-lover and sun-worshipper alike, it is still remarkably off the beaten track.

The charm of the Maremma is enriched by its livestock-raising traditions. The 'butteri', skilful cowboys, were talented enough to beat Buffalo Bill in 1911 when he challenged them to a contest at breaking colts. The Maremman cattle-rearers still remain proud of this victory and hand down their skills from father to son.

Leaving behind the Uccellina Park, the Via Aurelia Etrusca leads to the mouth of the Albegna river and to the Tombolo di Giannella, a sandspit which joins Monte Argentario, once an island, to the mainland. Another sandspit, or "tombolo", was also built up by the sea currents, to the south thus forming a lagoon, the Laguna di Ortobello, between the "island" and the mainland. The scenery of the Monte Argentario, which reaches 635 metres at its highest point is dramatic, with headlands, bays and shingle beaches.

Orbetello is set in the middle of the lagoon by the same name and is linked to Monte Argentario through a road built over an artificial bank (the dam), which has divided the lagoon into two stretches of water (the Eastern Lagoon and the Western Lagoon). Orbetello is a lively and busy town whose principal resource has always been fishing. Local seafood is widely considered to be the best in the Maremma so if you happen to be there around noon, take your chance to visit one of the many restaurants offering local specialties.

Before heading inland to explore the main Etruscans centres, it is worth visiting the hill-village of Capalbio, with its perfectly intact medieval centre. Capalbio is also know for some 'unusual' attractions such as the Tarot Garden, getting its name from 22 gigantic statues that represent the tarot cards. If you are lucky enough and you happen to visit Capalbio during the second week of september, you will have the chance to see many Italian celebrities hanging around and you can also attend the traditional wild boar festival. During other periods of the year, you can always pay a visit to the Pieve di San Nicola, the Collachini Palace or the Vulci National Museum in neraby Canino.

Leaving the coast, the road travels deep into the hills of the Marrema with the towns of Pitigliano, Sorano and Sovana forming a triangle enclosing the protected area known as "City of Tufa" (from the volcanic rock used for centuries as building material). You will almost certainly fall in love with Pitigliano as soon as you lay your eyes on the town. Build on a stone spur in a wild landscape, Pitigliano blends perfectly into the rock. From its position high above the lush valleys and twin rivers, Pitigliano affords stunning views, ones which have been enjoyed for many centuries as the local Roman and Etruscan ruins are testament to. The undeniable influence of the Jewish community, which dates back to the 15th century, has earned Pitigliano the nickname 'Little Jerusalem', and Jewish culture and cuisine are still very important in the town.

Northwest of Pitigliano you will find Sovana, another important Etruscan town dating back to the 7th century BC or even earlier. The ancient capital of this part of the Maremma and once a rival to Siena, Sovana is now a little village with ancient ruins and Romanesque architecture. North of the town is the Etruscan Necropolis containing over 100 tombs, many of which can be explored, beginning with the most spectacular of them all, the famous Tomba del Sileno.

Just a few miles down the road from Sovana, Saturnia is another stunning place to visit. This little village is filled with traces from eras dating back to the Romans, as well as a handful of absolutely mouth-watering restaurants. If you would like to indulge in a little pampering, the local spa complex which grew up around the sulphur springs, waterfalls and streams is a magnificent place to visit. The Etruscans who built the town are thought to have used these bubbling turquoise waters in their religious ceremonies.

This article is part of a series meant to describe some travel itineraries in the lesser known areas of Tuscany. You can find similar articles covering the Casentino Valley, Lunigiana and the smaller islands of the Tuscan Archipelago.

Born in the USA, but happily ensconced in the Island of Elba since 2001, Bob McCormack is a freelance writer with a very special passion for food and wine. His travel articles and Elba Islands hotels and restaurants reviews have appeared in numerous national and international publications.
http://www.visitelba.com