Discovering the hidden Tuscany: Lunigiana and the Magra Valley

Discovering the hidden Tuscany: Lunigiana and the Magra Valley

A delightfully undiscovered and unspoiled area in the hills of northern Tuscany, Lunigiana extends along the course of the Magra River at the borders with Emilia Romagna and Liguria. Due to its geographic position, Lunigiana is in many ways distinct from the rest of Tuscany and the locals still talk of "going to Tuscany." when they have to travel off the valley to reach Florence or other areas of the region

The Lunigiana gets its name from the port of Luni, established by the Romans at the mouth of the Magra River as a trading place for the marble coming from the nearby Apuan Alps quarries. The remains of this settlement can still be seen near the city of Sarzana but historic sites are not restricted to Roman ruins as the Lunigiana is scattered with castles, parish churches and walled villages built in medieval times all along the pilgrim route known as Via Francigena.

Pontremoli is the principal town and northern gateway of Lunigiana. It is a well-preserved medieval town in a scenic setting. Above the town is a restored castle with a museum of prehistoric stele statues. Pontremoli is known as the "City of the Books" because it has been housing a book market since 1458, at the very beginning of the printing industry.

Located halfway between Pontremoli and Villafranca. Filattiera is the ancient capital of the Malaspina, the family that ruled the area starting from High Middle Ages. The church of St. George and the defence tower of the 15th century castle are worth a visit. At the foot of the village, the Parish Church of Sorano is an important example of Romanesque architecture. The Pieve hosts a pre-Christian idol, while recent restoration works have brought back to the light traces of medieval frescoes.

Unlike the other villages of the region, Filetto is based on a squared Roman castrum plan with entry to the Byzantine village only possible through its two fortified doors at the opposite sides. Every summer Filetto relives the magic of ancient times with its Medieval Market which brings the whole village to life in the first two weeks of August. During the market one can experience the taste of 'a Medieval Banquet' accompanied with performances in the cloister of the old monastery.

Found in the lower course of the Magra River, Fosdinovo is the last village of Lunigiana before reaching the sea. Its imposing castle, perhaps the best preserved of Lunigiana, welcomes the visitors at their arrival. The fortress is still owned by the heirs of the Malaspina family that built it between the XIII and XIV century. The atmosphere is one of borderlands: you can almost smell the sea without forgetting the mountains behind.

Located on the south-western slopes of Appennines not far from the Cerreto Pass, Fivizzano was considered the "Florence of Lunigiana", because it was the locality where the Medici family was mostly present. Sitting along the Rosaro River, Fivizzano is rich with baroque palaces, churches and fortified walls. On a nerby hill the castle of the Verrucola, with its great tower and the medieval suburb at its feet. is certainly worth a visit.

Each summer Fivizzano celebrates the traditional gastronomy of the region with the Sapori festival. Since Lunigiana is famous for its dishes and the quality of its food, this is your best chance to enjoy some of the local specialties. You simply can't leave before having tried the "torta d'erbi" (a savoury wild herbs and vegetables flan) or the testaroli, an unusual type of fresh pasta made from an eggless dough that is first cooked like a crepe and then briefly plunged into boiling water before serving (usually topped with pesto sauce).

This article is part of a series meant to describe some travel itineraries in the lesser known areas of Tuscany. You can find similar articles covering the Casentino Valley, Lower Maremma and the smaller islands of the Tuscan Archipelago.

Born in the USA, but happily ensconced in the Island of Elba since 2001, Bob McCormack is a freelance writer with a very special passion for food and wine. His Elba travel articles and Tuscany hotels and restaurants reviews have appeared in numerous national and international publications.
http://www.visitelba.com